About this site
About a year ago I was sitting the water on a slow day at Breaker Bay waiting for a set. My mind began to wander a bit as it does. Anyway, I got to thinking about who was the first person to surf Breaker Bay. It dawned on me that I had no idea.
I started to think about how various spots got their names, who were the people involved and what was it like for them back in the day.
Then it dawned on me that the people who might know this sort of thing are still around and in many cases still surfing.
My original plan was to make a list of important details and leave it at that. Then I went to interview Howard Rait, and after about ten minutes of talking with him I realised I had to do something more to do justice to the subject.
So here I am today building this website. My hope is that it inspires others to contribute, and that in the end we might have a fairly comprehensive record.
I am aware that different people will have different points of view of the past. People are welcome to contribute with their take on things. Even if two accounts of the same event are wildly different they are both worth recording.
I hope you enjoy this site.
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The Author, Breaker Bay, Circa 1990.
Photo credit: Grant Maiden.